Sinai Bedouin guides

Nobody knows the Sinai better than the Bedouin; guides are a good idea in the wilderness. In some parts of the Sinai, Bedouin tribes will insist you take one. As far as guides go, don’t worry about them limiting your independence. If anybody knows what it is to want freedom in a wild place, it’s the Bedouin. Guides keep you on track and have lots of valuable trail skills: you learn a lot just by watching them. As much as that, guides can become companions that live in the memory like the scenery. Here’s how to choose a guide.

WHOSE TERRITORY IS IT? – The Bedouin are a tribal people and each tribe has its own territory. Most say you need guides in their territory but – critically – the guide has to be one of their own tribesmen. In the mountains of the Jebeleya tribe, you need a Jebeleya guide. In Wadi Feiran, guides have to be from the local Gararsha tribe etc. Only the Muzeina tribe let people of any tribe work in their lands. If you’re crossing different territories, you might need a new guide in each. It sounds trickier than it is. In reality, locals help you on the ground.

WHERE TO LOOK –  The main settlement in any given tribe’s territory is a good spot to start. E.g. the town of St Katherine for a guide from the Jebeleya tribe, the village of Wadi Feiran for a Gararsha guide; Nuweiba or Dahab for a guide from the Muzeina etc. Likewise, there’ll be guides in small villages near trailheads: the drawback here is the choice won’t be as big as in a town. The Bedouin are friendly so ask anyone – shopkeepers, taxi drivers or kids – and you’ll be pointed the right way, probably via several cups of sweet Bedouin tea.

HOW TO CHOOSE – There are brilliant and awful guides – CHOOSE WISELY! Always chat with a guide before you start; ideally so you have a few hours to reflect and, if necessary, make your excuses later. Does he sound interested in the trip and knowledgeable? What questions is he asking? What does he want to know from you? As much as anything, will you get on? A lot of the time, success rests on an interpersonal dynamic. If you get a bad hunch, heed it. Every time I’ve had it, it’s turned out to be right.

PAYING GUIDES –  Guide fees vary but across most of the Sinai, it’s about LE200/ GBP£20/ US$35 per day. Food for you and a guide is about LE30/GBP £3/ US$5 per day and jeeps will be extra if you need one to any mountains and back. Whenever money’s involved, you’ll have to haggle hard.

CAMELS – Camels carry water, food and bags. They’re essential in the desert, where water is scarce. The mountains have more water, meaning you can often go without a camel, at least for a few days. On longer routes though, where you need more supplies than you can carry, camels become essential again. Usually, you’ll go one way with a guide – a shortcut that saves time for climbing – with the camel taking a longer, easier route and meeting you in the evening. If you need a guide and camel, costs double. However, sometimes you can use someone as both a cameleer and a guide.