Tag: Wadi Sig

March 24, 2015

Sinai: five beautiful oases

This blog is mostly about mountains. I love getting to the tops of mountains. I love how they represent the last point between the earth and the sky; the last place we can go and the most natural end to a journey we could ever make. If there’s a single moment though – a single, iconic moment – that rivals getting to the top of a mountain, it’s arriving in an oasis. And I mean arriving in an oasis after days in the desert. When you get to an oasis, suddenly, there’s shade. Suddenly there’s water. You can hear the birds. You can smell the fires. You get handed tea. It’s that moment of knowing you’re out of the wilderness; that, just for a moment, there’s sanctuary and you can breathe easy.

When you go to one by jeep you’ll see it; but you’ll never really understand what that little clump of green means in the wider context of a desert. Oases are made special by what’s around them and by the journey you make to them.

I’ve already talked about my five favourite wadis in the Sinai. Here are my five all time favourite oases too. What are yours?

1. EIN HAYALLA My favourite of all, I first spotted this from high on Jebel Madsus; far below, it looked like an emerald gem buried in the red rocks. It’s a cluster of green palms in one of the heads of Wadi Kabrin, with deep water pools and trickling creeks. There are bamboo tunnels and fallen tree trunks you can walk across like bridges. Long ago, this oasis was on a pilgrim route to St Katherine; you can still find Byzantine pottery and crucifixes etched on the rocks. One amazing way to walk here is via Wadi Hebran, from the coast. There’s a similarly spectacular route via Wadi Sig, but it’s longer. And harder. You can also walk in via a place called Baghabugh, from St Katherine.

2. EIN SHEFALLA You won’t find many folks who’ve been here. Half way up a deserted wadi that drains El Gardood – a high, foreboding plateau that flanks the Gulf of Aqaba – it’s just a couple of palms below a vertical cliff. It’s not the lush jungle of Ein Hayalla. But the surroundings are much harsher. And that’s why this little patch of green means so much here. It has a themila too: a hole where you can dig down to find water. Walking to Ein Shefalla isn’t easy. You can do it from Wadi Guseib, on the Gulf of Aqaba coast near Bir Sweir. It involves a tough hike over a hard-to-navigate plateau for which, like all the oases here, you’ll need an experienced Bedouin guide.

3 EIN GUSEIB This little oasis huddles at the end of a rugged coastal wadi, below the El Gardood plateau. It’s a haven of green with palm trees, bamboo, pools and creeks that run through the sands. It’s a beautiful spot that you can get to with a walk from the beach. From Bir Sweir on the Gulf of Aqaba coast – roughly 25km north of Nuweiba – follow Wadi Guseib inland from the beach. Otherwise, you can do it at the end of a longer trail passing three of the oases here. Start near Ras Shetan and from here walk to Moiyet Melha (see below). After this you can climb up the El Gardood plateau, crossing it to Ein Shefalla and down its rugged coastal cliffs to Ein Guseib and the Gulf of Aqaba.

4 MOIYET EL MELHA They say a ghoola – a sort of evil witch – guards this oasis, maiming or killing anybody who traps its animals, cuts its trees or tries to claim the oasis for himself. Some are scared of her; others see her as a benevolent force of nature. A guardian who protects its animals and trees against human greed. Moiyet el Melha is a long line of green palms that grow at the bottom of high cliffs, where water seeps out. Getting here isn’t too tricky: it’s at the end of a long coastal wadi called Wadi Melha, which starts near the beach camps of Ras Shetan. Half way along is Wadi Wishwashi, a spectacular ravine. The oasis is near the end of the wadi; a beautiful spot to sleep.

5 EIN KIDD The only oasis in this list where you’ll find people. Sometimes, I like having places to myself. Other times, people add something. After days in the wilderness, it can be good to talk again. At least, it can with the right people. Getting stuck in an oasis with the wrong people would be a problem. Ein Kidd is in the territory of the Muzeina tribe and the Bedouin here are hospitable in the old school traditions. The oasis itself is a cluster of palms in Wadi Kidd, a long wadi that connects the St Katherine region with the coastal ranges. It’s a sort of half way house on treks between St Katherine and Sharm and it can also be tied into longer treks from the Jebel Umm Shomer area.

Check out the Google Map below, to pinpoint the oases. Remember, these spots are in remote, rugged mountain country and it’s essential to take a Bedouin guide who knows what they’re doing. Check out my Directory of the Best.

December 23, 2014

Wadi Sig: the Sinai jungle

The Sinai is a desert – every part of it. Most parts get less than 50mm rain a year. Some parts, less than 13mm. It’s a trans-continental sweep of sandy plains and harsh, rocky highlands. Not every part of it though. In some places, the Sinai gets green. It gets overgrown. Walk some wadis and it it feels like you’ve left the desert and entered the jungle. These wadis of the Sinai – the jungle wadis – are absolutely amazing: an environmental oddity you find only on the west side of the peninsula. On the high mountain side. The wetter side, where steep, impervious mountainsides channel all the water direct into the bottom of the wadis. The east side is totally different. The west of the Sinai is where desert meets jungle. There are a few great jungle wadis.

And for me, the best of all – the best wadi in the Sinai – is Wadi Sig. I reckon this is the King of the Sinai’s wadis.

It’s the emerald gem; the buried, secret jewel of the peninsula.

There’s hardly any writing about it. I clocked it the first time on a high peak called Jebel el Reeh about a year ago. Far below there was a big wadi that cut down – deep, deep down – as it ran down to the sea.

It’s overgrown with vegetation for long stretches. And vegetation on a bigger scale than what you find in other wadis. There are giant horsemint bushes higher than your waist and thickets of bamboo where you can’t see where you’re going. Where you have to push your way through. There are places with running water, pools and small waterfalls. And there are huge canyons: long, narrow parts where the sides tower vertically. There’s history too: look carefully on the sides of the wadi and you’ll see little dwellings built into the cliffs. It’s a wadi that has everything. And there’s no let up – it never eases off.

All these riches aren’t won easily though – Wadi Sig is a tough walk.

And it’s made tougher by the fact it takes you irreversibly deep; it commits you to a remote, multi-day expedition you can’t get out of easily. And one where you have to carry all your stuff except water. Camels can’t come this way. There are no paths. It’s mostly stony river bed terrain. There’s plenty of boulder hopping. Plus bits of scrambling. There are a lot of routefinding puzzles too. We got stuck at one point, jumping down into a black abyss, with a shower of vegetation falling on our heads, before escaping through a bamboo thicket (only to discover a much more sensible way around the other side). Black piping is tied on some rocks so you can abseil in places; but you never go down more than a few metres.

Wadi Sig isn’t technically tricky – it’s just long. And tough. A stamina thing.

If walking a wadi was a boxing match, Wadi Sig would be the equivalent of going the distance; of doing the full 12 rounds. We did it in a day, starting at 6am, finishing about 5pm, just before sunset; and going fast all the way. Ideally, it’d be better done in two days. The best plan would be to hike in from St Katherine on the first day – which takes about five hours – and then camp in the wadi. Then to continue to the end over the second day. It ends at a junction with Wadi Khareeta. After this, it becomes known as Wadi Mirr. It’s the same wadi – just with a different name – and it runs down to the Plain of Qa.

The easiest option is to just walk out of Wadi Mirr. It takes about a day to the end of the wadi, where you can find a jeep at a small Bedouin village. The downside of this is the jeep can cost a lot – probably at least LE500 to El Tur considering you won’t have much bargaining power. The other options are 1. to walk out through Wadi Khareeta, which takes you back to St Katherine in 2-3 days 2. to go through Wadi Zeregeiyah, which goes to Jebel Umm Shomer over 1-2 days, after which it’s another day’s walk back to St Katherine. You can also go to a place called Baghabugh, near Jebel Madsus, and then back to St Katherine over 2-3 days. Or you can go over the high pass of Naqb Umm Seikha to Wadi Jibal and back to St Katherine in 2 days. Be warned – none of these routes are easy.

The easiest of all is the Baghabugh route. This is mostly a hike. All the other routes are off piste adventure routes. Naqb Umm Seikha is the way the postman used to take from El Tur to St Katherine in the 19th century. But it’s seriously steep and would be a monster with a heavy bag. Wadi Khareeta is also steep at the end. Wadi Zeregeiyah is like a mini Wadi Sig, with lots of scrambling; including bits that are more technical than Wadi Sig.

And perhaps that’s another great thing about Wadi Sig.

It commits you to a mission where getting out is as much of an adventure as getting in in the first place…

August 24, 2014

The Sinai: five beautiful wadis

This blog is mostly about mountains. But wadis are a big part of the Sinai too. Whenever you do a mountain, the chances are a wadi will be part of it. Overall, walking in the Sinai, I’ve probably spent more time in wadis than on mountains. They’re the main routes between mountains. Most of the time you get water in them. You find gardens, food and shelter in them. There are beautiful wadis all over the Sinai but my favourites are on the west side of the peninsula. They have more water. Some even have streams and waterfalls. They’re a bit greener. They have more history too. Crumbling old paths and ancient hermit cells where you can sleep; plus chapels and ancient graffiti. If I have the time, I walk in them between towns, rather than take the bus. Anyway, here are my five all-time favourite wadis of the Sinai:

1. WADI ISLEH An old travelling passage between St Katherine and El Tur; I love to walk out of the mountains and down to the sea this way. Or go the other way, heading to the mountains from the coast. This wadi has dramatic narrow sections, including a spectacular gorge near its mouth; one of the Sinai’s great natural wonders. During flash floods, the Bedouin say this gorge fills to the brim with water. Long after the floods have gone, creeks and waterfalls still trickle. A spectacular pinnacle towers over the wadi half way along. There are lots of pretty little oases too; with palms and reeds. Look closely and you’ll see ancient paths and ruins. This is one of the few wadis in this list – and I’d argue the BEST – in which you can ride a camel almost all the way. I haven’t done it yet, but it’s on my to-do list. Further up, Wadi Isleh runs into Wadi Rimhan; which you can follow up to climb Jebel Umm Shomer: the Sinai’s second-highest peak.

2. WADI SIG One of the most little-known wadis of the Sinai, I didn’t do this until 2014, when I spotted it from the nearby peak of Jebel el Reeh; it looked beautiful, winding through the mountains. Sig means a sort of canyon in Arabic; so whenever you see a wadi’s called Wadi Sig, it’s a pretty safe bet it’s going to be good. Anyway, this begins at the foot of the Jebel Katherina highlands; then it becomes a narrow, winding canyon. Everywhere is dramatic. It doesn’t ever ease off. It has towering sides and overgrown stands of bamboo where it feels like you’ve walked into the jungle. There are ancient dwellings where you can sleep too. It’s NOT an easy walking route. But it IS an adventure. Wadi Zeraigiyeh connects it to Wadi Rimhan and Wadi Isleh too.

3. WADI SIGILLIA 19th century explorers were the first to mention this; and they made it sound magical. I first did it a few years ago, when I was exploring new parts of Jebel Serbal for my book Sinai: The Trekking Guide. It’s a big, gorge-like wadi that cuts along the southern side of Jebel Serbal: and it’s absolutely spectacular. It’s much harder to get to than any the other wadis here. The main way in is a crumbling Byzantine stairway – Abu Silim – that winds down a precipitous ravine. The steps are broken, so you have to go off piste. For something even harder, there’s a ravine called Wadi Baytheran. Or you can walk in from the coast from Wadi Jebaa, which has big, intimidating drops at the start. Anyway, Wadi Sigillia was once of the biggest Christian retreats in the Sinai: specifically because it was so hard to get to. You can still see the ancient ruins today. Plus beautiful creeks, waterfalls, pools and big stands of bamboo.

4. NAQB EL HAWA Naqb el Hawa is one of the first wadis I ever did: it’s still one of my all-time favourite spots. It means ‘Pass of the Wind’ and it’s the last leg of the pilgrim trail that came from Suez to the Monastery of St Katherine. It’s lined by rugged mountains on both sides – including the spectacular pinnacle of Jebel Zibb Rubi – but it’s an easy walk, with a gentle camel trail all the way along. It starts near an outlying village of St Katherine called Abu Seila; then runs down to a place called Sheikh Auwad. You can walk it either way, but going DOWNHILL, from Abu Seila, gives the best perspective on the surrounding scenery. You can even make it into a circuit with Wadi Madaman below. Whenever you do it, aim to get there for sunset, when it’s the most beautiful.

5. WADI MADAMAN A beautiful wadi near St Katherine and the place I escape the town. It has a faraway feel and is way off the main mountain trails. The only folks you’ll see here are the Bedouin. And meeting Bedouin in the wadis – who are always hospitable – only adds to the trip. It’s deeper than most other wadis around St Katherine and has the feel of a gorge, twisting around sharp bends; the gigantic peak of Jebel Naja towering up all the way. You’ll also see the little tomb of Sheikh Ahmed, an old saint of the Jebeleya tribe. Further up, the wadi runs into Wadi Tlah, with lots of Bedouin orchards. To get the best perspective, walk UP the wadi from the bottom. You start near the settlement of Sheikh Auwad and you can can tie it up with Naqb el Hawa – the wadi above too – which is best walked DOWNHILL. So the two work together. Go DOWN Naqb el Hawa, then back UP Wadi Madaman. It’s the best wadi circuit in the area!